the cape postlude

cape town was mostly what i expected it to be – a vibrant hub for tourists worldwide and a brilliant city set against the magnificent backdrop of table mountain that dominates the skyline. it is home to some of nature’s most beautiful reserves, wildlife and oceanlife, and has some of the most breathtaking views that will make you want to file for permanent capetonian residency. but the cape is not exempt from the rest of SA in regards to its deep economic divide and ever-growing spread of crime and poverty. despite the upmarket wealth and ritz that the tourism industry has brough to the cape, it is equally hard to escape the heartwrenching views of the townships and informal settlements that invade the heart of the city and its outer edges.

2 days is more or less an abomination to the cape town experience, but i can honestly say that my days here could not have been spent any better. having arrived to the airport with zero time to waste, i flew in a cab to the ashanti backpacker lodge where i temporarily park my bags and was greeted by my mountaineer guide for the day, mr. robin kayser, who was patiently waiting for me at the gate. in just a few minutes, we were already en-route in the car to hike a full day at table mountain. the weather was absolutely gorgeous with not a single cloud in the sky.

however, i would only realize upon arriving there – that i hadn’t eaten either breakfast or lunch since getting up at 3am. embarking on a rigorous 4 hr hike with 3 hours of sleep and no real food in my stomach was the least favorable situation to be in. with only a small bag of trailmix, bottled water and camera, i suffered my way through a rather treacherous path filled with plenty of steep climbs and unmarked trails. soon, i was beginning to wonder why i had opted for the advanced route, but it was already too late to fret and for nearly 2 hours, i struggled every bit of the way, holding on to each last sinew of leg muscle available – wondering if i’d ever (really) make it to the very top. i believe at one point i asked robin if helicopter rescue teams were operating that day in case i collapsed from fatigue and muscle cramps :)

yet, despite the physical weariness on my part, we made it to the top in one piece and without a single word exchanged between the two of us, we stood out on the rocks riding against the sharp cold breeze – relishing every angle of the spectacular view that covered the body of the cape, stitched together by its network of docks and wharfs along the atlantic coastline, and stretching out as far as robben island to the distant and majestic snow-capped mountains lining the opposite side of the coast. if there is one place on earth where one comes face to face with fear and awe, it is on top of a mountain.

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later that evening, nick (miranda’s son) and his girlfriend ine, swung by to pick me up at the lodge to meet up with his folks, aunt and uncle for a wonderful dinner at the wijnhuis in stellenbosch. the food was fantastic and the wine pairings were quite good. we sat there for at least 3 hours, losing all sense of time and worry – instead, wholly delighted to be in the presence of good company, wrapped in a perfectly warm and intimate setting. the ideal way to end an otherwise long and exhausting day.


the next morning was another action-packed day touring the peninsula and cape point. we started off early morning through drizzle and fog to travel along the scenic coastal route down to Huit Bay and then hopped on a boat cruise to catch the seals at Duiker Island. from there, we headed towards the boulders beach penguin colony in simons town to view the african penguin in their own natural habitat. after a short break, we packed up our lunches and paved our way into table mountain national park where we cruised all the way down on our bikes to the cape of good hope, the southern most tip of SA. the initial drizzle and overcast skies soon turned into sun and blue skies just in time for a perfect afternoon of biking, alongside our friendly ostriches and baboons. at the very tip of cape point, we hiked another 2-3 kilometers up the mountain peak where we spent the last remaining hours enjoying some of the most absolutely stunning views and forging new friendships that have made this trip all the more worthwhile.

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this weekend marks my halfway point here in SA. though it saddens me to know that i only have 2 weeks left before i head back to the states, i can already say that my time here has pushed me deeply to live with greater purpose and resolve – through the many relationships that have helped me see with clear eyes – the life that we are meant to be living on this earth.

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